Finally! Installed new rear torque rods in the Volvo. Amen. Here’s the Story.

Here’s the update on the installation of new rear torque rods in my 1990 Volvo 240 wagon/estate.
I found that using a 24 inch breaker bar with 1/2 inch drive was the key piece of this job.
I jacked up the car, removed the wheels, loosened the rear bolts on the torque rods, then the front bolts.
Did one torque rod per side at a time. I had sprayed Pblaster catalyst lubricant onto all the nuts and bolts a week ago.
Sure helped. Assembled it all, tightening the nuts a little more than finger tight, lowered the car onto the ground, then did the final
torque of all nuts. It was a little tight crawling under the car for the final torque of nuts, but not too bad.

The car rides straight and tight. Very much improved! No clunking when shifting, no knocking over bumps. Much less vibration
during acceleration and deceleration. I’m very happy with it.
Next on the to do list is (rear shock absorbers) DONE: July 25 – much better!, panhard rod, trailing arm bushings, and exhaust. Whew!
Oh, but the money I am saving by doing it myself. Oh….Yeah!
Enjoy these photos of the job.

Changing the strut mounts and strut inserts, God help me!

After gathering together all the parts and tools, I still cannot complete this job.
The top strut retainer bolt will not budge. The insert collar nut will not budge. I have sprayed PB penetrating catalyst numerous times on these areas, and no loosening. I tried compressing the spring and not compressing it. No luck. I have been advised from other Volvo 240 owners to take it to a shop that will use an air wrench to loosen the top nuts at least. The strut cartridge retaining nut may take a vise and hammer, as it is a bit rusty. It was a Kentucky car. The car drives well enough over the bumps. The struts are worn out, however. It is more a safety issue to me. I want better control and braking.

Brickboard Strut replacement posts
Brickboard Strut replacement posts2
Brickboard Strut replacement posts3
Brickboard Strut replacement posts4

The two independent shops nearby want between $600 – $900 (w/parts) to change out the strut mounts and insert cartridges.

Now I know why!

Brandon

NEW UPDATE: May 17 – I overlooked a simple step in the strut removal process. To allow the top strut retaining nut (the 15/16″ nut) to be removed, simply remove the 3 top mount nuts, lower the entire assembly down from under the fender, compress the spring, and

NOW

the top nut comes off using my two piece tool set. I’m so relieved! I’m saving the Big Bucks!
NEW UPDATE: May 22 – Finished installing the struts and mounts. Rides like a new car again! It took me about 8 hrs to complete this job, today. That’s counting breakfast and lunch breaks and driving over to Discount Tire up the street here in Franklin. Kevin at Discount Tire gave excellent service today. He met my unique challenge, quickly, professionally, and friendly. I needed the top strut nuts loosened just a bit so that I could remove the strut mounts from the assemblies. Took about 5 mins with Kevin using the Air impact wrench. No charge at all but to refer some business his way. I have bought a few sets of tires from them and will continue to do so. I just drove home and started on the job. Saved me a ton of money! Here are some photos from the procedure.

Finished the Strut job today!