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Posts Tagged ‘tips’

Start Up Do’s and Don’ts

Posted by hotcrowd on July 11, 2010

Startup Do’s and Don’ts
By Paige Arnof-Fenn,
Posted: 2006-11-15 13:25:15
Wish you had a ‘to do’ list for starting your biz? These seven key do’s — and don’ts — will keep you on track.

Wouldn’t it be great if someone could give you a “to do” list when you were ready to start your company that would guarantee your success? Even better, what about a “to don’t” list of things to avoid at all costs?
Through experience, I’ve found there are no shortcuts to launching a business–you have to do your homework to understand your customers, competitors, market conditions and risks. But there are some principles I’ve found to be very effective for growing both my company and my clients’ businesses whether they are startups or Fortune 500 corporations, whether they sell consumer products, professional services or technology products.
Even though we are all start from different places, these seven lessons have certainly served me well over the years:
1. Stop selling and start sharing. People are much more interested in what you have to say when you’re sharing your knowledge, your passion and your experience to help them solve their problems. Focus on being interested in them, and don’t worry so much about being interesting. It’s amazing how interesting you are when you’re paying attention to your customers’ needs. People buy from those they like, trust and identify with. Building rapport creates that trust and credibility. Just remember, it’s about the relationship, not the sale. Nobody likes to be sold, but everyone likes to buy.
Do: Listen to what your prospects and customers say with their words and body language.
Don’t: Pull out a brochure or sales sheet unless they ask for it.
2. Differentiate or die. What makes you unique vs. the others in the market? Make sure there’s something special about your product or service other than the price. Own something important in your customers’ hearts and minds. Being good is no longer good enough–you have to find something where you’re great. Use your imagination and creativity to set yourself apart from the crowd. I once worked with a business owner who always wears red. She works in a male-dominated field where everyone has basically the same credentials so at least she’s easy to spot at events. “The lady in red” gets most of her work by referral, which is a great way to build a business.
Do: Talk to real customers and ask them for a report card
Don’t: Chase last week’s/quarter’s/year’s trend
3. Solve problems people will pay for. Revenue is validation. Are customers voting with their wallets? Are your products or services the “nice to have” thing or the “have to have” thing? Be very important to your most important customers–they should think of you first for any needs in your category. Also, make sure you have more than just a “one off” good idea. Although great businesses start with great ideas, not all ideas are company-worthy. Many of the dotcoms forgot that the business model must actually work, that cash flow matters and that it’s not just about building awareness but about making the sale. Janet Jackson got plenty of attention for her wardrobe malfunction in last year’s Super Bowl, but did that sell more of her products?
Do: Test, tweak and try again.
Don’t: Ask your friends or family and call it “research.”
4. Leverage the evangelists. There are people out there using your product or service who would be glad to tell others about your business. If you can make them happy, they’ll help you spread the word to other like-minded customers. And here’s something to keep in mind: They may be using your product or service for purposes other than the ones you initially intended, so make sure you really understand what they like and dislike about your business and, more important, why. And remember, it’s not about pedigree or job title–your champions can come from anywhere. At one of the startups I worked for, a hair stylist made a key introduction for our company. Friend-raising can, in fact, lead to fundraising, so make friends before you need them.
Do: Make it easy for your evangelists to try your product or service.
Don’t: Discount the negatives. There may be an important insight buried within.
5. Be visible. Wasn’t it Woody Allen who said that 80 percent of success is just showing up? Invisibility is not a good business strategy–if people don’t know you exist, then guess what? You don’t. You don’t have to run a Super Bowl ad to get noticed, but you do have to be active in the communities you cater to so people know where and how to find you. Whether you have a technology business, a consumer products company or a professional services firm, you’re in the relationship business. If there are businesses that target your same customer base, then find creative ways you can each leverage your contacts and databases to multiply your outreach. Best-kept secrets are just that: secrets.
Do: Put your mouth where your money is, too.
Don’t: Hide in your office or behind your computer online.
6. Create extraordinary experiences. The relationships you have with your customers are based on the cumulative experiences they have with your employees, product, service and business. If your brochure or website makes one claim but the reality is very different, it’s the firsthand knowledge that will be remembered by your customers, so make sure you deliver on the promises you make every time you connect with your customers. Is it such a surprise that most of the airlines are going bankrupt while Jet Blue and Southwest are profitable?
Do: Consistently reinforce your key messages in everything you do.
Don’t: Forget that every employee, partner and affiliate is an ambassador, too.
7. Put passion above all else. Customers are savvy–they know when something is genuine or if you’re just going through the motions. So do your employees, partners and affiliates. If you don’t enjoy what you are doing, find something else to do! It’s hard to compete with someone who gets up feeling excited every day and who’s full of ideas about their business. To them, what they do doesn’t feel like work. Enthusiasm is contagious, so determine what it is you enjoy doing and then share your gift with others whose talents may lie somewhere else. When everyone plays to their strengths, the results are superior.
Do: Work you love and believe is important.
Don’t: Waste time. It’s your most precious commodity.
Paige Arnof-Fenn is Entrepreneur.com’s “Startup Basics” columnist and the founder and CEO of Mavens & Moguls, a strategic-marketing consulting firm whose clients include Fortune 500 companies as well as early stage and emerging businesses.

Posted in Business Topics, Careers, Jobs, Vocations, Money Smarts | Tagged: , , , , , , , , | 7 Comments »

10 Rules for great customer service

Posted by hotcrowd on May 30, 2010

Ten Rules for Great Customer Service
Think about the last time you had a negative buying experience. Did an e-commerce site fail to respond to your email query? Or maybe a sales associate at your neighborhood computer store didn’t know the difference between a floppy drive and a hard drive. Perhaps you were left on hold for an inordinate amount of time when you called a mail-order company’s toll-free line.

Negative buying experiences are almost always linked to shoddy customer service. These days it’s rare to find good customer support, even though most businesses claim that they put people first.

But customer service hasn’t gone the way of the dodo. In fact, after consumer groups and the media took potshots at e-commerce sites last year for leaving customers in the lurch, many businesses started to pay more attention to the levels of service they provide. Good customer service is essential for all businesses, and providing it isn’t that difficult if you and your employees enact these 10 basic rules:
Commit to quality service. Everyone in the company needs to be devoted to creating a positive experience for the customer. Always try to go above and beyond customer expectations.

Know your products. Conveying knowledge about products and services will help you win a customer’s trust and confidence. Know your company’s products, services and return policies inside out. Try to anticipate the types of questions customers will ask.

Know your customers. Try to learn everything you can about your customers so you can tailor your service approach to their needs and buying habits. Talk to people and listen to their complaints so you can get to the root of customer dissatisfaction.

Treat people with courtesy and respect. Remember that every contact with a customer — whether it’s by email, phone, written correspondence, or face-to-face meeting — leaves an impression. Use phrases like “sorry to keep you waiting,” “thanks for your order,” “you’re welcome,” and “it’s been a pleasure helping you.”

Never argue with a customer. You know darn well that the customer isn’t always right. But instead of focusing on what went wrong in a particular situation, concentrate on how to fix it. Research shows that 7 out of 10 customers will do business with you again if you resolve a complaint in their favor.

Don’t leave customers hanging. Repairs, callbacks and emails need to be handled with a sense of urgency. Customers want immediate resolution, and if you can give it to them, you’ll probably win their repeat business. Research shows that 95 percent of dissatisfied customers will do business with a company again if their complaint is resolved on the spot.

Always provide what you promise. Fail to do this and you’ll lose credibility — and customers. If you guarantee a quote within 24 hours, get the quote out in a day or less. If you can’t make good on your promise, apologize to the customer and offer some type of compensation, such as a discount or free delivery.

Assume that customers are telling the truth. Even though it sometimes appears that customers are lying or giving you a hard time, always give them the benefit of the doubt. The majority of customers don’t like to complain; in fact, they’ll go out of their way to avoid it.

Focus on making customers, not making sales. Salespeople, especially those who get paid on commission, sometimes focus on the volume instead of the quality of the sale. Remember that keeping a customer’s business is more important than closing a sale. Research shows that it costs six times more to attract a new customer than it does to keep an existing one.

Make it easy to buy. The buying experience in your store, on your Web site or through your catalog should be as easy as possible. Eliminate unnecessary paperwork and forms, help people find what they need, explain how products work, and do whatever you can to facilitate transactions.

Posted in Business Topics, Money Smarts, Personal Improvement | Tagged: , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

Bowling Lingo and commentary.

Posted by hotcrowd on October 16, 2009

When cool weather keeps you indoors, go bowling!

Randy’s Rants
Seattle, WA –

Randy Pedersen, a 13-time PBA Tour titlist and 24-year Lumber Liquidators PBA Tour veteran, has served as ESPN’s color analyst for PBA telecasts for the last six years.

On each week’s ESPN telecast, Pedersen can be heard giving his expert commentary on oil patterns, bowlers’ techniques and bowling strategy. If you’ve ever heard Pedersen use a term you’ve never heard before or you simply don’t understand his lingo, PBA.com is here for you to provide an explanation.

“Randy’s Rants” features Pedersen’s own set of “bowling lingo,” helping you follow along with Randy each week on ESPN.

“Randy’s Rants” will be updated every week with Pedersen’s own set of “bowling lingo,” helping you follow along with Randy each week on ESPN.

“Wet/Dry”
Wet/dry is a term used to describe the sensitivity of a particular lane condition. This reaction is normally caused by the lanes causing the bowling ball to not hook at all in one spot and then to hook too much in a spot immediately adjacent. The wet-dry phenomenon is commonly seen on the television show when the lanes are not immune to changes.

An example would be a ball rolling over the 10th board and missing the head pin while a ball hitting the 9th board would make the ball hook too much and leave a split.

“Ball Travels in the Direction of Rotation”
Ball travels in direction of rotation, meaning that once friction is created the ball will then grip the lane and change or travel in the direction the ball is rotating. The more side rotation, the more the ball will hook or change direction in the back part of the lane, the more-end-over-end, the less reaction

“OB” or “Out of Bounds”
The term “out of bounds” is used to describe a lane pattern where a bowling ball will not hook back, or recover, from an area too far away from the head pin.

The OB is commonly intentionally placed on a lane pattern (Shark) to allow the athlete to play an extreme angle on the lane.

“Ball is Looking for Friction”
The ball is looking for the dry part of the lane — whether it’s the outside part of the lane or down lane (back end). When the ball finds this part of the lane, it hooks.

Ball is “Rolling Out”
Roll out is when the ball has found too much friction and it stops traveling in the direction of rotation. The ball starts to hook up and then quits, sometimes it has to do with too much forward roll.

“Skid/Flip”
Skid, flip is when the lanes are very slick up front and dry in the back part of the lane or when a player has a lot of side roll. The ball slides a long way down the lane and then breaks loose hooking very, very sharply in the back part of the lane.

”Pace”
When talking about scoring, what is “pace” — pace is when you assume the player will go strike, spare, strike, spare. As opposed to striking out, which would be max score.

Pace can also describe the difficulty of a particular pattern. For instance, the Cheetah pattern has an extremely high scoring pace as compared to the U.S. Open pattern which has an extremely low scoring pace.

“Forward Roll”
The hand is more behind the ball and stays in that position through release, creating a roll that is more end-over-end.

”Side Roll”
The hand starts behind the ball and then rotates to the side after the thumb comes out, creating a roll that is more sideways (ball hooks more than a ball with forward roll).

Bowling Lingo
ABC
The American Bowling Congress was founded in 1895 and was dissolved in 2004. It was replaced officially on January 1, 2005 by the United States Bowling Congress as an organization to combine the efforts of the ABC, WIBC, YABA, and USA Bowling.

ACTION
1) Spin on the ball and the movement of the pins caused by that spin. A relatively slow ball with a lot of action can be much more effective than a very fast ball with little action.

2) Pins flying and mixing, ending with a good makeable leave.

3) Bowling for money, usually one-on-one.

ADDRESS
The bowler’s stance before beginning the approach.

ADJUSTMENT
The changing of part of your game to be more competitive on the particular lane and/or lane condition you are bowling. This can mean an alignment change, equipment change, or even changes in your physical or mental game; some are subtle, others more pronounced.

APPROACH
1) The space extending back from the foul line used to make the steps and delivery.

2) How the bowler gets to the foul line.

AREA
A player has “area” if they are able to hit a larger number of boards and still get the ball back to the pocket. Modern high scoring environments can often give a player a 5-8 board area.

ARMSWING
The path your arm takes from your pushaway to release. Generally it is desirable to have your armswing in a consistent plane of movement.

ARROWS
The triangles embedded on the lane used in aiming the throw.

AXIS
Generally the reference is to the positive axis point (PAP), which is the point on the ball where the bowler’s release creates the initial axis of rotation.

AXIS TILT
Ranging from 0 to 90 degrees, this is determined by the direction your axis is facing when you release the ball. 0 is parallel to the gutters, 90 is parallel to the foul line. The less axis tilt you have, the sooner the ball will go into a roll. Higher degrees of axis tilt promotes skid.

BABY SPLIT
The 2-7 or 3-10 split. Easier to pick up compared to a regular split.

BACK ENDS
Usually refers to the far end portion of the lane where the most hook can occur. If the back ends are very dry, the ball will continue to hook with power for most players; if the back ends are tight, most players will see more deflection in the pocket and fewer strikes.

BACKUP BALL
A ball that curves left to right for a right-handed bowler or right to left for a left-handed bowler. Professionals normally do not throw back up balls.

BAD RACK
A full set of pins that appears to have one or more not properly positioned; generally undesirable. See Re-rack

BAGGER (SUCH AS FIVE BAGGER)
A string of strikes; i.e., five bagger is five in a row.

BAKER GAME/SYSTEM
A method of team play in which in all five players bowl together to make one game; player #1 bowls frames 1 and 6; player #2 bowls frames 2 and 7 etc. Most Baker matches are two games, total pins.

BALANCE (AS APPLIED TO A BALL)
The weight of a bowling ball is not always evenly distributed in the sphere. USBC rules allow a ball to vary 3 ounces from the drilled top half to bottom half of a ball, and one ounce from the left to right side. Before resin balls, these weights were used to subtly change the roll pattern of a ball. A ball that has negative balances tends to be influenced to turn away from the pins; a ball with positive balance will be influenced to turn into the pins.

BALANCE (AS APPLIED TO A PLAYER)
A player is in balance if, at the point of release, they are able to complete their follow through without falling off to one side; generally means that the release and slide are simultaneous.

BALANCE HOLE
As a general rule, if you take a bowling ball and place the label in front of you and then exactly dissect the ball into two equal halfs, a right and left side, the gross weight of each half would be the same. However, if you dissect the ball off center, a greater portion of the weight block will be on one side of the ball, possibly making that half of the ball too heavy vis-a-vis the other half; also, modern high tech balls and their asymmetrical cores can be drilled in such a manner as to be in violation of the maximum tolerances allowed by the USBC for side to side weight (which is a one ounce differential); to get the ball back to legal compliance an extra, non-gripping hole may be drilled to remove the excess weight. This extra hole is the balance hole. The balance hole can also be used to increase or decrease a ball’s reaction and/or to fine tune a more subtle change in ball reaction.

BALL RETURN
The physical part of the equipment upon which the ball sits after being sent back to you after a delivery.

BALL SPINNER
A machine that is used to spin a ball in a container so that the user can apply ball polish or sand the ball down more quickly.

BALL TRACK
1) the area of the lane where most balls are thrown;

2) the area on a ball where the ball rolls; most balls will show scratches and wear in this area after several games.

BEAK
The nose; the center of the headpin.

BED POSTS
The 7-10 split.

BELLY THE BALL
Describes the type of shot where a player stands inside and tosses it to the outside in the hopes it returns to the pocket for a strike.

BIG FOUR
The 4-6-7-10 split.

BLIND SCORE
When a league bowler is “blind” and can’t find his/her way to the league that evening, the bowler’s average is simply used (as if he/she just bowled that score) when figuring the team’s total for each game.

BLOW
A miss or an error failing to covert a spare other than a split.

BOWL OUT
The practice of allowing a team player to complete their game by bowling more than their scheduled turn at one time; allowed as a courtesy to a player that has other time commitments; league and tournament rules can prohibit the practice.

BOARD
A lane consists of 39 strips of wood, each called boards; they are usually numbered by the player and used as targeting terms; i.e., I was throwing the 5th board; in synthetic lanes there are no boards as such, but usually the synthetic overlay has a pattern that resembles natural wood lanes.

BODY ENGLISH
Movements and contortions of the body intended to steer the ball as it travels down the lane.

BOOMER
A big hooking ball; a person that throws a big hooking ball.

BOTTOM WEIGHT
The weight of a bowling ball is not always evenly distributed in the sphere. USBC rules allow a ball to vary 3 ounces from the drilled top half to bottom half of a ball, and one ounce from the left to right side. Before resin balls, these weights were used to subtly change the roll pattern of a ball. A ball that had higher top weight would tend to go longer before hooking; a ball with bottom weight would tend to roll earlier. Although still used in ball drilling layouts, it is less important with the modern ball.

BREAK POINT
The portion on the lane where the thrown ball begins to hook back to the pocket. Finding the proper breakpoint (called “breakpoint management”) is critical to the modern game. A ball that hooks too early or one that hooks too late will make it very difficult for a player to be consistent. Breakpoints can be adjusted by making changes in alignment, target, ball, ball surface and ball speed.

BROOKLYN (see JERSEY SIDE)
Refers to a ball that crosses over to the other side of the headpin opposite the side it was thrown (i.e. a Brooklyn strike hit the 1-2 pocket for a right-hander).

BUCKET
A diamond-shaped, four-pin cluster, e.g., the 2-4-5-8 or 1-2-3-5. Some claim it to be the 2-4-5-8 for right handers, the 3-5-6-9 for a lefty.

CARRYDOWN
The oil conditioner on the lane does not soak into the boards, it sits on top. As balls are thrown, the oil is subtly moved…it may be pushed left and right, or, it may be moved farther down the lane (carried down). Usually, but not always, a house with a lot of carrydown will not allow a ball to hook as much on the back ends and scores will be lower. In some houses and oil patterns, the initial pattern is too much over/under and carry increases as the carrydown effect takes place. Carrydown is invisible to bowlers and cannot be seen. A top professional can anticipate carrydown and make adjustments accordingly.

CENTER OF GRAVITY (CG)
The heaviest part of a bowling ball. The “CG” is signified by a dye mark placed on the ball by the manufacturer designating the center of the weight mass relative to the top of the ball.

CHANNEL (also GUTTER)
Semicircular grooves or drop-off area on each side of the bowling surface.

CHOP
To knock down one pin of a spare leave, while the pin next to or behind it remains standing.

CLEAN GAME
A game without any open frames.

CLOSED POCKET
A full rack of pins set up for your strike ball such that the head pin is a tad off spot towards your ball hand; i.e., to the right for a right handed player; closed pockets can give unpredictable results, often negative.

CONDITIONER
Another name for lane oil. All lanes need some type of protective coating to prevent burn marks in the heads from the force of the thrown balls. In the “old days” lane conditioner was used primarily as a protective measure; today, under the System of Bowling, some centers legally use the lane conditioner as a tool to assist in scoring and guiding a ball to the pocket. The area of a lane that is heavily conditioned will retard the hook, and if there is heavy conditioner in the center/pocket area of the lane it can assist the ball into the pocket.

CONVENTIONAL GRIP
A type of ball drilling where the fingers are placed up to the second joint. Not used by many higher skilled players as it is much harder to get a hook on this type of drilling, although, it may assist accuracy in some players.

COUNT
Usually the number of pins knocked down in the next frame that apply to a spare or strike.

COVERSTOCK
The material that makes up the outer shell of the ball; the hardness, texture, and shine of a bowling ball. It is generally defined as “Aggressive”, meaning it is made of a high friction material that is prone to large hook or flip when it encounters dry boards; or, “Medium” which displays less tendency to hook; and, “Mild/Mellow” which is the lowest friction material and the least sensitive to dry lanes.

DEUCE
A game of 200 or more.

DOTS
1) Series of seven spots on the lanes past the foul line but before the arrows; used to assist in targeting and alignment; also, the same spots on the approach normally used to align your feet in your initial stance.

2) Markers on the runway that guide the bowler’s approach.

DOUBLE WOOD
Any two pins such that one is directly behind the other; i.e., the 2-8; 3-9; 1-5.

DOWN AND IN
Refers to a line that is more direct and parallel to the boards; opposite of bellying the ball.

DRESSING
The lane conditioner; the act of applying lane conditioner.

DRIFT
The number of boards that you vary from straight in your approach to the foul line. For example, if you place the inside edge of your slide foot on board 15 on the approach, but your inside edge slides on the 12 board at the foul line, you have a three board inward drift.

DUTCH 200
A game of exactly 200 made by alternating strikes and spares throughout the entire game.

EARLY TIMING
Releasing the ball before the sliding foot completes its slide; usually results in less hook and a weaker ball as the player does not have the proper balance and leverage to hit up on the ball.

ENTRY ANGLE
The angle relative to the pocket that the ball enters the pocket. As a rule, increased angle means increased strikes (hence the preference for a ball that hooks a lot, or for clean back ends.)

FALL BACK SHOT
A type of shot that starts to the opposite side of the normal pocket and then fades back into the pocket; sometimes used on very oily lane conditions.

FAST EIGHT
Describes an apparent good pocket hit that gets just eight (8) pins; typically the right-handed players will leave the 4-7 spare and the left-handed players the 6-10; usually the ball is a tad high when this happens.

FIFTH ARROW
The 25th board from the right (right hand player). The fifth arrow is normally played by bowlers who have an “Out of Bounds” condition.

FILL BALL
The ball thrown after a spare in the 10th frame.

FINGER GRIPS
Inserts that are placed in the finger and/or thumb holes to allow a better grip and generation of more spin, later release and more lift.

FINGER WEIGHT
The drilling of a ball so that the finger holes are closer to the ball’s label than is the thumbhole; it is a form of positive weight.

FINGERTIP
A type of grip in which the fingers are inserted only as far as the first joint, allowing much more spin.

FIRST ARROW
The farthest to the right (for a right handed player); located on the 5th board.

FLARE (TRACK FLARE)
The migration of the ball track from the bowler’s initial axis- the axis upon release-to the final axis-the axis at the moment of impact with the pins.

FLAT
A ball that deflects too much; ineffective ball; few revolutions; if a ball comes into the pocket on an apparent good hit but leaves a weak hit such as the 5-7 or 8-10 split, it is said to have hit “flat.”

FLAT GUTTER
The normal gutter is shaped somewhat oval so that the ball can roll purely and cleanly to the pit area if it goes into the gutter early…the channel effect; however, at the end of the lanes by the pins, the gutters are flat, not ovaled. The height (from the pin deck to the bottom of the flat gutters) is regulated by the USBC as if the flat gutters are too high, they will allow much better pinfall as pins will deflect off the sideboards and bounce back onto the lane much easier resulting in more pin action.

FLUSH
Being solid in the pocket.

FOLLOW THROUGH
What your arm does after the ball leaves your hand. It is generally desirable to follow through towards your target and upward as this promotes more accuracy.

FOUL
Crossing or touching the foul line at delivery. It’s penalized by a count of zero pins. If the foul occurs on the first ball of a frame, the bowler gets a second shot at a new rack.

FOUL LINE
1) The line that separates the approach area from the beginning of the playing surface.

2) A line, usually red, between the approach and the beginning of the lane, 60 feet from the head pin.

FOUNDATION FRAME
The 9th frame.

FRAME
A game of bowling is divided into 10 frames. In each frame there are two chances to knock down all the pins, except in the 10th frame.

FULL ROLLER
A ball that rolls over its full circumference. The track of the ball cuts between the thumb and finger holes. Although once very popular, it is now rarely used because it lacks the carrying power of a semi-rolled ball due to the fact that it generally cannot create the increased entry angles that are helpful to carrying your strikes, particularly the off-hits.

GREEK CHURCH
1) A split leave of five pins similar to the 4-6-7-9-10 so called because it reminds people of an old cathedral type church with spires, etc.

2) Any split on which there are three pins on one side of the lane and two on the other.

HALF TEN
The description of a 10-pin that was left by a ball in the pocket and the 6-pin laying down in front of the 10-pin in a half hearted manner; same as “weak 10”.

HANDICAP
An adjustment in scores in order to equalize competition by adding pins on a predetermined basis.

HEADS
That part of the first portion of the lane that is usually hard maple (wood lanes) to absorb the impact of the thrown balls, generally the first 20 feet of the wood lane.

HEAD PIN
The 1 pin.

HIGH
A ball that hits more to the center of the head pin, often leaving a split.

HIGH HIT
1) A solid hit on a pin due to contact near its front center

2) hitting too much head pin on a strike attempt.

HOUSE
The bowling establishment or building.

JERSEY SIDE/HIT
A ball that hits on the opposite side of the player’s normal pocket; i.e, a Jersey for a right handed player would hit on the 1-2 pocket; usually refers to getting a strike in the “wrong” pocket. Called a “Brooklyn” in most locations of the country.

KEGLER
German word for bowler.

KICKBACKS
The side boards around the pins that divide lanes, where pins frequently rebound or “kick” back onto the lane aiding in pin action.

KING PIN
The 5-pin. It is a key pin to produce a strike: a light pocket hit or deflected hit leaves this pin standing.

LEAGUE
Organized competition on a weekly basis for team play.

LEAVE
Pins left standing after the first ball has been rolled.

LIGHT HIT
A ball hitting the side of the pin deflecting it sideways.

LILY
The 5-7-10 split; also known as the “sour apple”.

LOFT
The distance the ball travels between time of release and the time it hits the lane.

LONG OIL
Condition in which the lane conditioner is applied from the foul line farther than normal. There is no magic standard, but 35-40 feet or more of application was considered long oil. It can be a more difficult condition in that there will be less back end to generate pocket entry angle. Long Oil in today’s environment would be considered anything longer than 40 feet of oil. 35 is now considered short oil.

MAPLE
The hard wood used for the head portion of the lanes (foul line to arrows). Wood lanes are mostly obsolete on the PBA Tour. Only 1 center will have wood lanes during the 2005-06 season.

MASS BIAS
Mass bias in a bowling ball occurs when the weight block or portion of weight block is more dominant in one direction inside of a bowling ball.

MATCH PLAY
A type of competition in which two bowlers compete against one another, rather than against the field as a whole. Typically, the winner of a match advances to the next round for another match.

MESSENGER
The name given to the pin that rolls across the pindeck into a pin or pins to either get a strike or break up a split.

MINUS
In competitive play, the amount of pins (including bonus, if any) that a player is scoring under a 200 average. A player that shoots 1,534 for eight (8) games is “minus” 66.

NEGATIVE WEIGHT
Weight on a ball that tends to hold back the hook and/or to get the ball into a roll earlier; bottom weight, negative side weight and thumb weight are considered negative weights. These are considered static weights that can be drilled into a ball.

NO-TAP
A type of competition where nine (9) pins on the first ball is scored as a strike; in some instances there are 8-pin no-tap events; in those, eights (8) pins or more on the first ball counts as a strike.

OPEN FRAME
A frame having neither a spare or strike.

OPEN BOWLING
Bowling for the fun of it, as opposed to competing in league or tournament play.

OUT OF BOUNDS
An area from which the ball can’t get to the pocket with its usual break. If, for example, a right-handed bowler delivers the ball from too far to the right, it is said to be out of bounds.

OVER
To a professional bowler, the number of pins above 200. Thus a score of 224 is “24 over.”

PAP (POSITIVE AXIS POINT)
The point on the ball that is equidistant from all points of the release ball track.

PAR
To a professional bowler, a 200 game.

PERFECT GAME
A game of all strikes–twelve strikes in a row–resulting in bowling’s maximum score of 300.

PICKET FENCE
The 1-2-4-7 or 1-3-6-10 spares.

PIN DECK
Area on which the pins are set.

PIN PLACEMENT
Out or In. A drilling term that is relative to a bowler’s track designed purposely for creating more ball dynamics. A Pin-in ball (when the pin is located within two inches of the Center of Gravity) is excellent choice for control and less hook; a Pin-out ball usually can be made to hook more and flip more dramatically than pin-in balls; they often give the driller more options.

PIT
The area of the lane behind the pin deck. The area at the end of the lane.

PITCH
Angle at which the holes in a ball are drilled.

PLUS
In competitive play, the amount of pins (including bonus, if any) that a player is scoring over a 200 average; a player that shoots 1,734 for eight (8) games is “plus” 134. See also “minus”, “over” and “under”.

POCKET
The desirable location for the ball to hit the pins to maximize strike potential. Generally the area between the 1-3 pins (right-hand player) or the 1-2 pins (left-hand player). This is the target for the first ball in a frame.

POSITIVE WEIGHT
Weight on a ball that tends to enhance the hook and/or to get the ball into a roll later down the lane; top weight, positive side weight and finger weight are considered positive weights. These are considered static weights that can be drilled into a ball.

PUNCH OUT
To finish with consecutive strikes, from any frame on.

PUSHAWAY
The pushing out (forward) of the ball to begin the swing (coincides with first step of four-step approach.)

RADIUS OF GYRATION (RG)
Identifies how fast a ball begins to rotate once it leaves the bowler’s hand.

RANGE FINDERS
Markers in the lane that help the bowler determine the target line. There are two sets of such markers: 10 dots located seven feet past the foul line and seven arrows arranged in a triangle beginning 16 feet beyond the foul line. There are also range finders at 35 and 40 feet down the lane per USBC rules.

RE-RACK
Resetting the pins to a new full rack due to a perceived mis-spotting of one or more pins.

REVS/REVOLUTIONS
The number of times the ball rolls over its circumference from when it is released until it contacts the pins; as a rule, more is better.

ROLL OUT
A ball that loses its side rotation before hitting the pins; the hook action stops at that point and the ball straightens out.

SANDBAGGING
Deliberately keeping an average low so that person can receive a bigger handicap.

SCRATCH
The actual score the bowler makes; it is without any handicap adjustment (to equalize competition).

SIX PACK
Six strikes in a row.

SKID
What the ball does when it first hits the lane surface; all balls need to skid before hooking.

SLEEPER
A rear pin that is not easily seen because of a pin directly in front of it (Ex.: 2-8, 3-9, 1-5). See Double Wood

SOUR APPLE
A weak hit that leaves leaves the 5-7, 5-10 or 5-7-10 split; also, the 5-7-10 split itself. Also known as the “lily”.

SPAN
On a bowling ball, the distance between the thumb and finger holes

SPARE
To knock down the remaining pins standing left after the first throw with the second throw.

SPLIT
Various combination of pins standing after a first throw where one or more pins has been knocked down creating a space between standing pins and thus a harder spare. Examples: 4-5, 5-6, 4-7, 6-10, 7-10, 4-6-7-10.

SPOT BOWLING
A method of aiming the ball in which spots (arrows and dots) on the lane are used as targets rather than looking at the pins during the throw.

STRIKE
Knocking down all 10 pins with the first effort.

TAP
An apparent perfect hit for a strike but one pin is left standing.

TURKEY
Three consecutive strikes.

THREE HUNDRED (300) GAME
A perfect game.

TOP WEIGHT
Drilling of a ball so that there is more weight above the label than there is below; it is considered a positive weight.

VACANCY
A “dummy” score used when a team does not have the same number on the team roster as do other teams. The vacancy score is set by the league and carries a handicap the same as if some bowler was carrying that average.

VENT HOLE
An extra hole drilled to relieve suction in the thumb hole; not a gripping hole.

WASHOUT
A “split” with the headpin standing; symbolized as “W”; not making the spare is considered a blow or error, not a split. For example, the 1-2-4-10 or 1-2-10 for right-handed bowlers, or the 1-3-6-7 or 1-3-7 for left-handers is considered a “washout.”

WEIGHT BLOCK
The interior portion of a ball that adds extra weight to it to bring the overall gross weight higher. Knowledge of the location of the weight block is used to create balls with differing positive and negative weight distributions.

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Blogging Tips 2009 from ReallyHotIdeas

Posted by hotcrowd on August 6, 2009

I read about this today on ReallyHotIdeas.com blog. Great tips. I’m always on the hunt for savvy suggestions and wisdom. It’s relevant to what we do with blogging here and elsewhere. Personal blogs and commercial blogs can gain from these bits of know how. Hope this helps you too.

Monday, July 27, 2009
10 Blogging Tips for 2009
With all the new internet marketing methods available, blogging has become a little bit “old hat” in the eyes of many. I mean, it’s not sexy like Facebook; it’s not as easy as Twitter and it certainly is not as glamorous as having a MySpace page. In spite of all of this, blogging remains one of the most effective ways to brand your business online. Following are 10 reminders about blogging to keep in mind .

Blogging in 2009: Going Back to Basics

Blogging Tip #1: Post Regularly. Readers will be more likely to follow your blog if you have a regular posting schedule. Post weekly, post bi-monthly, post monthly — it doesn’t matter what it is (although it should be at least once a week in my opinion) — but stick to a schedule.

Blogging Tip #2: Use Plugins. Plugins like “relevant posts”, “most popular posts” and “recent posts” make your blog more sticky because they encourage readers to hang around longer. The longer a visitor is on your blog, the better chance you have of converting them into a customer. And that, remember, is the goal when you’re in business.

Blogging Tip #3: Post from Experience. I like first-hand information. In fact, many web surfers are looking for this type of info. It’s no coincidence that “how to” information is the number one selling product on the web. Most of it comes from first-hand information.
So use case studies, write in the first person (eg, use “I”), tell your readers how you solved a particular problem, etc. I sell a lot of ebooks by doing just this. It lets readers know that you know what you’re talking about; hence, you become an authority voice in your niche.

Blogging Tip #4: Niche It. Speaking of niche – clearly define who your audience is and speak to them – and only them – directly. You will get ancillary customers/clients/readers as a matter of course. BUT, you should always blog with your core audience in mind.

Blogging Tip #5: Comment on Other Popular Blogs in Your Niche. Make relevant posts on other authority blogs in your niche. The key word here is r-e-l-e-v-a-n-t.

Blogging Tip #6: Write Well. Make your post long, make it short, make it mid-length, but by all means, write well. This cannot be taken for granted. I don’t care how salient your post is, if it’s poorly written, you will not be taken seriously. In fact, you can even damage your online reputation. It’s probably no coincidence that the alphabet and sentence construction are among the first things we learn in school. It’s the foundation of communication — so don’t waste it; use it.

Blogging Tip #7: Market Your Blog. Don’t post it and forget it. This is your chance to use sexy marketing like social networking. Market your posts on Twitter, Facebook, MySpace, etc.
Remember, once you start with social networking though, you have to engage with those communities. So when you start to incorporate social networking into your blog marketing, do it with this in mind.

Blogging Tip #8: Use a Clean Design. A blog doesn’t have to have all the latest gadgets to be effective. A simple, clean design – with good content – will compete with the flashiest design every time. Simplicity rocks!

Blogging Tip #9: Personalize Your Blog. Inject some personality and let YOUR BRAND come through!

Blogging Tip #10: Don’t Give Up. Blogging is tedious, boring, monotonous and downright draining at times. Once you’ve blogged for a while, there will be days when you just want to chuck it in favor of something more exciting. But keep this in mind: in many cases success is not gained by the most talented, the most brilliant, or the most beautiful. All of these things help. But, success comes to those who simply “stick with it!”

Credit goes to: Yuwanda Black from Inkwell Editorial. She writes great stuff! 🙂

Until Next time – stay hot stay cool!
Christoffer Bjorklund

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Camping Tips and Fun

Posted by hotcrowd on August 4, 2009

Some Camping Tips

Ah, the memories of getting away from it all, strengthening relationships, daring adventures, and we only just left the driveway. Anytime is a great time for camping. Go with friends, family, or that special someone. Get in touch with your inner wild child. Some of my best experiences in life were camping and fishing related. Good times. Enjoy these.

When using a public campground, a tuba placed on your picnic table will keep the campsites on either side vacant.

Get even with a bear who raided your food bag by kicking his favorite stump apart and eating all the ants.

Old socks can be made into high fiber beef jerky by smoking them over an open fire.

When smoking a fish, never inhale.

A hot rock placed in your sleeping bag will keep your feet warm. A hot enchilada works almost as well, but the cheese sticks between your toes.

The best backpacks are named for national parks or mountain ranges. Steer clear of those named for landfills.

Acupuncture was invented by a camper who found a porcupine in his sleeping bag.

While the Swiss Army Knife has been popular for years, the Swiss Navy Knife has remained largely un heard of. Its single blade functions as a tiny canoe paddle.

Effective January 1, 1997, you will actually have to enlist in the Swiss Army to get a Swiss Army Knife.

Lint from your navel makes a handy fire starter. Warning: Remove lint from navel before applying the match.

You’ll never be lost if you remember that moss always grows on the north side of your compass.

You can duplicate the warmth of a down-filled bedroll by climbing into a plastic garbage bag with several geese.

When camping, always wear a long-sleeved shirt. It gives you something to wipe your nose on.

You can compress the diameter of your rolled up sleeping bag by running over it with your car.

Take this simple test to see if you qualify for solo camping. Shine a flashlight into one ear. If the beam shines out the other ear, do not go into the woods alone.

A two-man pup tent does not include two men or a pup.

A potato baked in the coals for one hour makes an excellent side dish. A potato baked in the coals for three hours makes an excellent hockey puck.

You can start a fire without matches by eating Mexican food, then breathing on a pile of dry sticks.

In emergency situations, you can survive in the wilderness by shooting small game with a slingshot made from the elastic waistband of your underwear.

The guitar of the noisy teenager at the next campsite makes excellent kindling.

Check the washing instructions before purchasing any apparel to be worn camping. Buy only those that read “Beat on a rock in stream.”

The sight of a bald eagle has thrilled campers for generations. The sight of a bald man, however, does absolutely nothing for the eagle.

It’s entirely possible to spend your whole vacation on a winding mountain road behind a large motor home.

Bear bells provide an element of safety for hikers in grizzly country. The tricky part is getting them on the bears.

A great deal of hostility can be released by using newspaper photos of politicians for toilet paper.

In an emergency, a drawstring from a parka hood can be used to strangle a snoring tent mate.

Life Lessons

Any stone in a hiking boot migrates to the point of maximum pressure.

The distance to a given camp site remains constant as twilight approaches.

The number of mosquitoes at any given location is inversely proportional to the amount of repellent that remains.

The probability of diarrhea increases with the square of the thistle content of the local vegetation.

The area of level ground in the neighborhood tends to vanish as the need to make camp becomes finite.

In a mummy bag the urgency of ones need to urinate is inversely proportional to the amount of clothing worn. It is also inversely proportional to the temperature and the degree to which the mummy bag is completely zipped up.

Waterproof clothing isn’t. (However, it is 100% effective at containing sweat).

The width of backpack straps decreases with the distance hiked. To compensate, the weight of the backpack increases.

Average temperature increases with the amount of clothing brought.

Tent stakes come only in the quantity “N-1” where N is the number of stakes necessary to stake down a tent.

Propane/butane tanks that are full when they are packed, will unexplainably empty themselves before you can reach the campsite.

Given a chance, matches will find a way to get wet.

Your side of the tent is the side that leaks.

All foods assume a uniform taste, texture, and color when freeze-dried.

Divide the number of servings by two when reading the directions for reconstituting anything freeze-dried.

When reading the instructions of a pump-activated water filter, “hour” should be substituted for “minute” when reading the average quarts filtered per minute.

The weight in a backpack can never remain uniformly distributed.

All tree branches in a forest grow outward from their respective trunks at exactly the height of your nose. If you are male, tree branches will also grow at groin height.

You will lose the little toothpick in your Swiss Army knife as soon as you open the box.

Rain.

Enough dirt will get tracked into the tent on the first day out, that you can grow the food you need for the rest of the trip in rows between sleeping bags.

When camping in late fall or winter, your underwear will stay at approximately 35.702 degrees Kelvin no matter how long you keep it in your sleeping bag with you.

Bears.

The sun sets three-and-a-half times faster than normal when you’re trying to set up camp.

Tents never come apart as easily when you’re leaving a site as when you’re trying to get them set up in the first place.

When planning to take time off of work/school for your camping trip, always add an extra week, because when you get home from your “vacation” you’ll be too tired to go back for a week after.

Camping Buddy Costume Character

Script: You thought you could just leave me on the side of that
mountain, eh? I traveled many miles for many days to give you this
important message. Singing commences. (that’s why camping
buddys’ here!) Maybe wrap my head in gauze. Do a crazy sleeping
bag dance.
(I’m crazy lost on a mountain sleeping bag man and I do believe I
want some candy). a la ‘Adam Sandler’

Camper’s Checklist

Planning a camping trip? Deciding what you need to take can be difficult, so check out our list first. While you may not need to take everything on it, you can use it as a guide to determine what you do need.
Campsite Equipment
Tent, plus mallet, ropes, stakes and poles
Tent repair kit
Dining canopy
Tarp
Folding camp cots plus pads
Pillows, sleeping bags and blankets
Air mattresses and pump
Camp stools/chairs
Liquid fuel or propane lanterns, plus fuel
Gas can
Long handle axe
Camp saw
Bungee cords
Nylon cord or rope
Folding table
Mosquito net and mosquito head net
Hammocks Cooking Equipment
Liquid fuel or propane camp stove, plus fuel
Fuel filter
Folding stand for camp stove
Cook kit/utensils
Collapsible cups and water container
Portable water filter/purifier
Salt and pepper shakers
Can opener
Funnel
Dunk bag
Campfire cooking grill
Ice chest
Plastic, resealable storage bags
Garbage bags
Dish rags and towels
Water bucket
Utility container
Personal Hygiene Items
Biodegradable soap and soap dish
Toothbrush and toothpaste
Stainless steel mirror
Portable toilet and extra toilet bags
Biodegradable toilet paper
Wash cloths and towels
Solar shower
Lip balm
Sunscreen Individual Camper Equipment
Backpack
Camera/film
Sunglasses
Canteen with cover and cup
Flashlight with extra batteries and bulbs
Multi-tool
Compass
Binoculars
Laundry bag
Emergency First Aid Items
First Aid kit
Snake bite kit
Insect repellent
Windproof matches in waterproof container
Instant cold compress
Emergency blanket
Signal mirror
Whistle
Flare signals
Area maps
Sunburn cream
Foot powder Clothing
Socks
T-shirts and long sleeve shirts
Khaki pants or jeans
Multi-pocket shorts
Swimsuit
Polar fleece
Gloves/mittens
Jacket
Sun hat and thermal hat
Belt
Boots/tennis shoes/sandals
Poncho

Posted in Hobbies and Leisure, Personal Improvement, Travel | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

 
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